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I'd remove the tank, dump all the fuel, and visually inspect the tank interior for any rust. While you have the tank off, go ahead and swap out for a fresh set of NGK Iridium IX plugs. Dump an entire bottle of Redline into the tank and fill it with 93 octane. Ride the snot out of her and enjoy...

With an R6 header and slip-on, I'd recommend a fuel controller and block-off plates.

Congrats dude, I know you’re excited! It’ll be like she never left :)

That's a very generous offer! This is a perfect little package for anyone needing to perform a valve adjustment and timing chain replacement (while you're already in there)! Someone in need will get some use out of this and save a good little chunk of change in the process! :) Good on ya John!

Hooray!!! You must post pics as soon as she's back in your possession! :D

Sent you a message.

I’m still working on killing my hearing with my shorty :p

That’s fantastic!! Be sure to post pics if you get her back. I’m sure we’d all love to see her brought back to her old glory! :cool:

speed19 my apologies dude, that exhaust is in the far back corner of my 20ft. unit and I'd have to remove an entire living room worth of stuff to get to it. Sorry bout that.

It’s a very curious situation, indeed. Like you said, we’ve got the same mod ensemble, and I waited till 55k to do my valve adjustment. I had to go right back into mine that time and remove the head for purposes of valve seal replacements, and so I got up close and personal with the valves and...

Aww MAN the photos really put that failure into perspective! That was a pretty wild turn of events you described, too. How many miles were on that engine? Also, what was it in your particular situation that you believe led to the valve burn??

Holy mess dude that’s awful. Just trying to understand your “pre-symptoms,” but when you say you had been having bad popping for a while, when would it occur to where it caught your attention? Just asking for clarification so that the forum can learn. Most of us with aftermarket exhausts and...

What led you to the conclusion that one of your valves was burnt? Was it visually obvious?

I don't have an answer to your question, but I certainly have questions of my own... How'd that happen? :oops:

Yep, I'll pull it out for some pics soon when I'm on that side of town. It's mint.

Dunno your location, but my stocker is just sitting in storage here in central Texas.

You shouldn't need a stand since you're only removing the upper pinch bolts, steering stem nut, and related upper tree handlebar bracketry in order to replace the upper clamp/ignition assembly. The lower pinch bolts will be holding your forks from the bottom, and so the bike will just sit there...

She turned 65k last week, so you've got me beat, LOL... I've been commuting on my Tiger, so it's been keeping the miles off my Fizzer. I weigh 170 lbs, and the 10W is fantastic. Maybe give the Hindle tune another go once you've done the timing mod... I've been meaning to try Marthy's map again...

Here's a snippet of the parts spreadsheet I put together back when I did the YouTube tutorial for this job: In addition to everything above, consider replacing the actual tensioner while you're in there. If you want to go a step further and save potential trouble later, go ahead and remove...

Happy to be of help, brotha! Like I tell all of my subscribers, I started my channel shortly after purchasing my Fizzer nearly 7 years ago when I soon discovered that there wasn't any material out there. Somebody had to do it, I figured it may as well be me! Thank you very much for the shoutout...