Recent content by yellowfz

Not true, to some extent it will keep the same travel but at larger wear cycles it will cause a slight travel increase. Air will cause a no brake feel until pumped, pumping increases the feel of pressure, that's how you know you have air in the line.

Thanks didn't have the legend at hand just saw in the diagram above that it recommended Lithium Soap based grease and did not look to see if that was correct, but the "S" was a reference to the spot not the actual type of grease, I wouldn't use silicone make sure it is silicone grease, all it...

As long as you keep the fluid level correct it will, as the fluid goes down if you don't add more it will get slightly longer at the end of the pad life, if you add fluid to compensate you have to remember to take that added fluid out when you do new pads, if not you compress the piston the...

Looks like everything is in place correctly, a disc will get discolored after a few hard stops and take a few normal stops to go back to the silver color. If you get up to 30mph and pull the clutch in does the bike feel as if it is stopping on its own, when I say stopping on its own I mean you...

It is probably okay then if you rode it and it did fine, the free play adjustment is not necessary if you did not do it during the pads life cycle, I adjust mine ever so often to keep a certain feel on the pedal. Look right above the right side foot peg you will see the rear brake hose going...

OOPS, reread your above post -- disregard below suggestion. If you adjusted the brake pedal to compensate for the wear in the old pads (pedal free play) it may be in a slight pressure state, make sure you have the correct amount of free play in the pedal, it can make the pads apply slight...

There is not a return spring in the caliper, pads should ride close to the disc, in fact there should be some slight rubbing, if you seat your pads after you install a new set, that entails going out and getting up to about 30mph and hitting them hard almost coming to a complete stop and then...

Put smaller blinkers on few years back and they only had two wires so the running light side of the blinkers did not work (need 3 wires), so came up with and idea as to what to do with the other wire. Bought some Eagle Eye LED lights and mounted them in the side faux vents. Bought factory style...

Pretty nice find, seems straight forward, remove and replace with new tail piece.

Or use an automotive type oil filter, the rubber gasket seals better and makes the filter easier to take off. The small o-ring on the stock Yama are not as forgiving as the larger flat seal on a automotive oil filter. I just use a filter I found at Walmart that works for both the FZ6R and my...

+1, bolt placement looks the same.

I didn't get to ride the 650 that day, wife wanted to leave, 650 looks as good as the 1000. The 1000 is so manageable on power you don't really know that you are on a liter bike. The bike has a lean angle power compensator, works real well, I took a couple of corners without hitting the...

Go take a look at the Kawasaki Versys 1000, I am telling you it is REAL nice, feels like an electric engine pulling through the RPMs, MAP is perfect, shifts buttery smooth, I like to not use the clutch once I take off and just do the roll back throttle a little and up shift, the Kawasaki is...

Tail trunk.

I have of course the stock and then I bought a Yamaha Double Bubble before the Puig Touring got here which took almost 6 months ( was one of the first to get), so now I have two shields I don't need or want anymore, guess Ebay is an option. :D In a couple of years I am selling the FZ6R and...